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I tell him his city is known around the world because of its missile launches and ask him if he’s ever heard them.“Yeah, I’ve seen them. Kim, like many others, doesn’t understand why the US feels so threatened by the missile program.“It’s a work my country is doing for our own defense. It makes Wonsan one of the few places in the country without regular blackouts.
The nation’s founder, Kim Il Sung, oversaw the first Scud missile launch in the 1980s.
His son and successor, Kim Jong Il, launched more than a dozen missiles during his 17-year rule. Each launch projects North Korean power, to their own people and the rest of the world.
They spoke to people from all walks of life, learning more about what makes this country tick, the reason for its deep hatred of the US, and just why people who live under an authoritarian regime claim to adore the Kim family.
This is Ripley’s account of their journey into the heart of the hermit Korea reminds most people of missile launches, nuclear warheads, massive military parades — and Kim Jong Un commanding absolute power.
I am in what is probably the most intense gift shop in the world.
Postcards sold here carry slogans like “We will crush the US’ attempts for a nuclear war” and “To the US hardline we will counter with the ultra hardline”. His favorite song is North Korea’s “eternal revolutionary song”, praising Kim Jong Un.Like everywhere else in North Korea, life revolves around the leaders. There’s one word to describe the 125-mile journey east from Pyongyang, the country’s capital, to Wonsan: bumpy. One lasts 20 minutes — because there’s major roadwork ahead. It takes some dickering between our minders and the police officer manning the post, a few phone calls and a promise to drive slowly and carefully past construction crews before we’re allowed through.A birthday party is underway, and we watch students singing the praises of their supreme leader. We see men and women laboring in dark, badly ventilated tunnels as we trundle past. Majestic mountains, thick forests and the dots of tiny towns in the distance.But Kim Jong Un has taken this to a new level since taking power in 2011, launching satellites, ordering nuclear tests and firing missiles with frightening regularity. It’s like an insurance policy for Kim Jong Un and the ruling Workers Party of Korea, protecting them from the US and its allies. But it’s sometimes easy to forget all this in Wonsan, a place where residents can spend quiet afternoons reeling in anchovies.This has taken North Korea dangerously close to the brink of war with the US, whose reactions to the tests have become increasingly belligerent under the Donald Trump administration. I ask Kim Un Taek, a retiree, what it’s like to live here and he says it’s really good because of the clean air from the sea. We see it going up.”I ask him what message those missiles in the sky send him.“Pride,” he says. Besides missiles, one of Wonsan’s proudest achievements is its new hydroelectric plant, built in large part by the city’s residents themselves.Chae Jin Song, the birthday boy, calls Kim Jong Un the “father who returns all the love of real parents”. I wonder what life is like for people in those small, rural communities — places outsiders, especially journalists, are kept far away from.I ask him why he considers Kim like his father, and he tells me it’s because Kim gives them love even real parents can’t give.“I declare I will become a true member of the children’s union, who studies better in order to repay the love of respected leader Kim Jong Un,” he vows. An entire generation, brought up to worship their supreme leader. Wonsan is a mid-sized industrial city, the 5th largest in the country.And you don’t even need to read Korean to understand what the posters sold here say. Despite a total lack of anything in common, we warm to each other and part as friends. I have no idea what follows will be one of the most disturbing days we have ever had in North Korea. A haunting melody is played on loudspeakers at 5am; a citywide alarm clock to wake residents to a new day.The symbolism — a giant fist crushing the US, an American being annihilated by his own missile — speaks volumes. Despite being constantly under the watchful eye of government minders, they got an unprecedented level of access to this secretive state, beyond the bright lights of Pyongyang, and into the North Korean hinterland. Holding a nuclear sword over the US and its allies, threatening to lash out at any time. CNN’s Will Ripley, Tim Schwarz and Justin Robertson visited North Korea in June and spent 15 days there.