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If I make as if I’m going to cancel the deal or not buy, they’re often willing to lower their price to make the deal happen.When the seller arrives, I’ll confirm the price they offered, inspect the item, and see if there’s any damage that I can use to negotiate the price even lower.When you head out to buy a phone, you’re probably carrying a few hundred dollars with you. Together, this should give you a good idea of what to offer.

They maintain a database of lost/stolen i Phones and are a quick and easy way to check an i Phone’s IMEI / MEID.

When you call AT&T / T-Mobile, they’ll want the IMEI for the i Phone, so make sure you have that ready.

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When you call Sprint, they’ll want the MEID for the i Phone, so make sure you have that ready. I’d like you to check the i Phone’s MEID, confirm that the i Phone is not currently active on an account, and confirm that the i Phone is not on a lost/stolen list. You’ll want to inspect the i Phone and make sure it’s in working condition.

When someone answers the phone, use the following script: Hi! I run through a quick 19-point checklist when I buy an i Phone.

Here’s some tactics to test to try and buy the i Phone at a lower price: On higher priced items (0 ), when the seller is traveling to meet me, sometimes I’ll use the time and effort they’ve invested in getting to me as justification for lowering the price I’m willing to pay.

Here’s the psychology behind this: because they’ve already invested some time in getting to me, they’ll be more attached to the deal.

Once you have the i Phone’s IMEI/MEID, you can contact the carrier and confirm if the i Phone is clear to be activated / used on the network or if the i Phone has been reported as lost/stolen, blocked from activation, or is active on someone else’s account.

I use Check to check the IMEI / MEID on every i Phone I purchase.

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